MENAGERIE | Minerals & More!!!

The WIZARD'S MENAGERIE

Page 1 Wizard's Plant Science + More

Page 3 New Additions (not editions)

Page 2 Organics Untangled + More

The Wizard's Menagerie Comes to Life

February 18, 2024, The first insubordinate Journalistic entries are being added to the menagerie web page. The Page will take on a life of it's own. It will evolve and grow. The Menagerie is, and will be, a collection of things and stuff important to the collector / editor. However, It may just be a conglomeration of things that don't fit anywhere else... the way we relocate items to a summer cottage, attic, or storage room. We Hope you enjoy the Wizard's Menagerie.

Who the Heck is the Wizard Dude?

Alchemy...Alchemical Growth...Plant & Otherwise

Type this up

Wizards Vote "no" on Chemical Fertilizers

To grow happy, healthy plants, the gardener must vitalize the soil. Bring it to life…raise the energy. Plants look to the soil for their sustenance. The Plant Wizard insists that conventional fertilizers are fast food for the plant….filling…..but they do not necessarily result in plant vitality.

The Plant Wizard considers chemical fertilizers to be those chemically altered or completely synthesized by man. Before chemical fertilizers, humans increased crop production by adding ashes, bones, manures, and pulverized rock to garden soils.

Nitrogen is what got the chemists really excited. Plants need it in the largest quantities. Until the early 20th century, gardeners, farmers, and “the like” all begged nitrogen from Mom Nature. She measured out rations and distributed conservative quantities of nitrogen via her lightning storms and nitrogen cycle. Barnyard animals were quite

generous with their piles of nitrogen-rich dung, but this was not enough to satisfy agriculture, or for that matter, war departments. After all, nitrogen was the key component to gun powder, and generals required significant quantities to wage wars. Germany came up with the Haber-Bosch process to synthesize nitrogen from the air. The result was enough gun powder to fight two world wars, and to fertilize thousands of additional agricultural acres. In fact, it became possible to grow crops on previously unproductive soil. Productivity increased every season, but it took more and more synthesized fertilizer to perpetuate this productivity. Many experts have noted a large loss of topsoil over the past few decades, and attribute it to the addiction of these products and practices.

Fertilizers are most often soluble salts that can harm plants and soils. When these salts are dissolved in a soil solution, osmosis can draw moisture away from plant roots. Nitrogen and potassium salts are the most common fertilizers to cause plant injury. Salts are used to destroy microbes in order to preserve foods, so it makes sense that salts destroy populations of vitalizing beneficial soil bacteria. What a soil killer!!!The same bag of salty garden fertilizer that contains nitrogen, probably includes potassium....a double whammy! The Plant Wizard cautions gardeners that the most common source of potassium in a bag of fertilizer is potassium chloride. It’s cheap, but the chloride portion kills beneficial microbes…waaay counter-productive to building a healthy soil. Phosphorous, listed second on the N-P-K label, is an important requirement of plants, but they probably won’t get much from what comes out of the bag. Many soils, in fact, have adequate phosphorous, but it binds up and becomes unavailable to plants. A soil with adequate microbial life can biologically change phosphorous already in the soil into forms available to plants. Beneficial soil microbes like bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes are essential to promoting a healthy, productive soil. Many chemical fertilizers eventually deplete the microbes that build topsoil. Fertilizers synthesized by man have high salt indexes, often contain chlorine, or even create formaldehyde. Pickling, sterilizing and embalming your landscape soil, while adding nutrients, seems counter-productive. Mainstream agriculture knows how to fertilize, but has forgotten how to vitalize soil.

Sturdy plants resistant to problems are built with brix, Brix is the measure of sugar in the plant sap. High sugar content indicates a healthy plant photosynthesizing maximally. This tells how healthy the plant is. Nowadays, brix can be measured by an inexpensive hand-held instrument, called a refractometer. This gadget is fun to use and is a terrific esteem building gardener prop.

Low brix plants broadcast ill health into the environment like a Face Book subscriber posting their vacation plans, "I'm leaving tomorrow for Bermuda. My doors are not locked". Electromagnetically, pheromonally...I don't know.....but the plant signals hungry insects and exploitive pathogens. "Here I am. Come get me. Chew my leaves. Suck my fluids. Disrupt my every healthy function."

Building high brix in plants is a cooperative effort between plant and gardener. The gardener supplies good microbial soil, rich in humus and minerals. Great water, in correct amounts is essential. Don't forget encouragement. Infuse your plants with positive subtle electo-magnetic energies. Talk to them. Intend them well. Plants will take it from here.

Here's something interesting. No matter how high man builds brix into garden plants and crops, we cannot achieve the brix levels of plants grown in their natural environments. Scientists have tested it.

What can you build with BRIX?

Refractometer

Cool Response to Minerals & More Fertilizer

A tomato plant, not watered, baked in ninety degree heat...... of course, wilted completely. It should have had no hope to survive??? It was drenched with Minerals & More Fertilizer and watered for ten days....with this result.

Point at which it wilted. New growth initiated.

Scar tissue formed so that it could again grow upright.

Only two leaves died

Send us your Minerals & More anecdotes.

What did the boy plant say to the girl plant? * "I'll never leaf you."

Wizards creatively manipulate physical reality, utilizing every learned tool, within the constraints of Cosmic Law. We call it "magic". Wizards know that "magic" is just "science", undiscovered, unseen, or denied.

No one at WPN is a wizard, but we consult. Our Wizard is elusive, but when present, we make use of the opportunity.

Minerals, Microbes, Subtle Earth Energies

Subtle Earth Energies Forgotten When Growing Plants

Solar energy makes its way to plants as sunlight. It is absorbed by plants as the beginning of a process that energizes all of Earth’s living things. Thanks to the sun, plants receive rays to transform into the energy for life on our planet. But what else is there? Lightning, striking earth, doesn’t do much more than blow things up. Bolts are too hot to handle. Mother Earth collects energy gently. So what else is there? Stellar energy travels billions of miles through outer space as starlight, to impact our world in a somewhat refined under-stated manner. Due to proximity and gravitational mass, the planets in our solar system offer even more influence than the stars. We humans are mostly oblivious, but wizards and plants sense the value of these subtle, but vital energy waves, that enter our atmosphere. When energy enters Earth’s atmosphere, it collects, then builds, and interesting things happen. A rhythm begins. Energy waves in air oscillate back and forth at a frequency that tunes to the Earth. The sphere we inhabit spins along on her axis, while a molten core creates electrical properties something like the windings of an electrical motor. There is a reaction with spin to radiate a magnetic field into the atmosphere. Due to sloshing molten material in the core, the magnetic field reaches out from earth in an amoebic undulating fashion. Atmospheric energies mix and mingle with Earth’s magnetic field to birth wispy electromagnetic fields that hug the Earth in flowing currents of ELF (Extremely Low Frequency) radio waves. These long waves contain low energy, but carry it far. They are the perfect subtle form, best utilized by humans, animals, and plants. Useful energy collects and is absorbed in Earth’s structures and substances. The most productive soils, collect, store, amplify, and transmit energy. These soils are paramagnetic, or slightly attracted to a magnetic field, the key word being slightly. This isn’t like the strong ferro-magnets that you played with in grade school. Paramagnetic materials are more subtle, and best suited for subtle energies. Rocks and soils vary from highly paramagnetic to not at all. Energy is provided to plants through conductive paramagnetic earth particles. We all know the tidal force that the Moon exerts on Earth’s lakes and oceans, but soil water is also affected. The Moon pumps water charged with energy through the soil to the roots of grateful plants. Energies are changed in paramagnetic soils to increase cell division in plants and microbes. High levels of paramagnetism increase the health and vitality of plants in your landscape. Many gardeners miss the importance of being connected to everything in the garden environment. There is a powerful interface between subtle energies, soils, water, microbe, plant and humans….all is connected. There is a vibratory frequency for each, that can tune to another, and encourage others to vibrate. Energy builds and resonates throughout the landscape. All benefit and thrive!.

Elements? Minerals? Nutrients? Plant Nutrients?

Minerals are compounds that contain the elements to feed plants. They are found in rock, eroded rock, soils, bodies of water, soil water, etc... Minerals are compounds without carbon; they are inorganic. Minerals do not originate from living sources, but are consumed, and cycled through living organisms. It takes a great deal of work by plants, and their soil microbe friends, to turn rock minerals into food …but they manage. Dead plants, as well as dead and defecating animals, return minerals to the soil, which now include "organics". These are plant ready, easily utilized nutrients. The Wizard likes the word "nutrient". To him, this means available to the plant. Most garden soils are lacking in minerals. There are significant amounts recycled into garden soil if you are adding compost. However, give rock minerals a chance to join in, especially those that originate from many rock types. Glaciers, grinding down rocks and distributing a wide variety of minerals, have been responsible for creating extremely fertile soils. As many as ninety different mineral nutrients can be found in various rock dusts. Mainstream scientists say less than twenty are essential, but plants tell a different story. The Wizard actually spent time as a plant, and understands first hand, mineral requirements and nutrient desires. If you were a plant, would you limit yourself to twenty foods?

Microbes are as Important as Minerals to Plant Growth

Micro-organisms in garden soil, transform raw rock minerals into plant available forms. The addition of beneficial microscopic bacteria, fungi, and protozoa work at this, and much more! A healthy, prolific soil life community is essential. Decomposers like bacteria and fungi are critical in vitalizing landscape soil. Animals and plants die to become food for soil dwelling organisms. Eventually, nutrients and energy are released for a new cycle of growth and decay. Bacteria are the most abundant. By producing enzymes, bacteria break down raw organic matter and minerals into the nutrients that plants can absorb. Bacteria also labor hard to create healthy soil aggregates. Polysaccharide materials on the outside of bacterial cell walls glue soil particles together into healthy soil globs. There are even bacteria that “fix” nitrogen from the soil air, to make nitrogen available for the plant. Fungi are great decomposers of dead and living materials. They compliment bacteria by moving more actively in the soil. Fungal threads called hyphae twine through a matrix of dead, dying and living matter. They reach far into the soil jungle to invade and penetrate organic materials. Bacteria provide the glue for soil aggregates, and hyphae bind them into the spongy soil that sticks a bit when squeezed between your fingers and palm…good stuff called colloids. Soil fungi populations are easily depleted. It is common for a loose fungi-friendly landscape soil to be damaged by construction equipment or foot traffic. Improper fertilizer and chemical applications are a pox on beneficial soil fungi. The Plant Wizard brags about Mycorrhizae Fungi? They invade plant roots, and that’s a good thing! These soil fungi evolved with 400,000 different plant species to create mutually beneficial relationships. The Wizard says mycorrhizae tend to look for a “Win, Win.” Tiny fungal threads (hyphae), attach to plant roots, and spread into the surrounding soil. They bring additional water and nutrients to the plant. In effect, plants end up with larger root systems, with the benefits of increased water uptake, resistance to insects and disease, and increased nutrient accumulation. Mycorrhizae even secrete enzymes to unlock tightly bound nutrients like phosphorous. This is one good fungus to have around! The Wizard is proud to count many of them as his personal friends. Microbe consumers, such as protozoa, paddle around soil water, gobbling up bacteria. Plump protozoa die and produce waist to impregnate soil with oodles of plant ready nutrients! Which is more important, minerals or microbes? Well.....minerals aren't much use to plants without microbes. Microbes could just keep recycling, but............have you ever wondered what happens to the stuff Waste Management recycles??? Can factories keep making good things with recycled recycles??? Plants need minerals and microbes. Microbes are ambitious little dudes. They just give up and die, without minerals to keep them busy.

Minerals, Microbes, Subtle Earth Energies...You are the Key

A gardener’s energy is the driving force. Garden resonance is a matter of getting everyone on the same page…rocks, trees, soils, fleas, moss and toads, birds and bees. A team reflects the coach, a congregation follows their spiritual leader, a garden tunes to the driving frequency projected by the gardener. What does this mean; where does a driving, infectious, vibratory energy come from? Well, where do you find that lilt in your step? How did your voice move from bored to enthusiastic? What puts that sparkle into your eyes? Do you find a driving force within yourself? Do the things around you provide energy? Props certainly lift my energy level. The wizard reminds me often that things do not create happiness, but I have noticed his attachment to certain wizardly gizmos. Just the thought of grabbing my long time friend, the stubby digging spade, for a garden project, puts a lilt in my step. Broke-in boots, sun-faded baseball cap, and my eyes get a sparkle. A step into the garden, and I am oscillating big time! Whether pristine forest or terrific garden, a tuned resonance persists; vibratory energy is stored and sustained. Entry into a resonant garden even energizes the energizer…the driving force…the gardener. The hummm of a bee, smile of a blossom, rub of foliage, scent of dug dirt, or song in the heart…it all adds in…it’s all vibratory at its essence. The Plant Wizard instructs that there is more to a driving force, “Colors, sounds, smells…every object has its unique energy signal. Signal A + B does not always result in AB…you can get C. There is something profound at work when the creative juices flow. Signal A + B + signaled “intent” of the gardener will result in C. Attention to the signals and intended result creates what the gardener visualizes. Give two gardeners the same tools and materials, the results will vary. Give twenty gardeners the same tools and materials, the results will vary.” The Plant Wizard claims that every great gardener, even if unaware, gathers powerful energies from within. Your personal energy reaches out to garden friends to make them happy and healthy. This is “the green thumb” title, awarded to those who are cosmically connected to their gardens. The same concept may be illustrated in the kitchen. Why are grandma’s chocolate chip cookies so much better than those baked in a factory? It is due to the energy grandma extends to the materials and process. Quantum wizardry states that focus, with intent and attention, will result in a better cookie or plant. You can catalyze the residents of your garden into a resonant equilibrium. The Greek philosopher and scientist, Pythagoras, agreed with us. He said, “all of the sounds and vibrations together form a universal harmony in which each part, while having its own function and character, contributes to the whole.” The Wizard claims Pythagoras had a great garden.

More than you want about Subtle Earth Energies????????????????????????????????????????

Plants live in communities called ecosystems…everything integrated and inter-related. Each community has a unique make-up. All of the mineral, plant, and animal entities interact as members of their local environment or neighborhood. Above-ground, sun energy puts it all into motion. Plants capture and convert energy, which eventually cycles through animals. There is a perpetual and continuous flow. The soil receives, processes, stores, and provides. Soil is an essential part of Earth’s eco-systems, key to the cycling, and flow, but energies don’t necessarily start in the soil. Wizards have alleged for centuries, an ethereal substance throughout the Cosmos, which connects vibratory energies, and acts as a medium to transmit waves of it. Physicists first believed that space was empty, but now agree that there is something out there. Detectable matter makes up 5% of our universe. Undetectable dark matter makes up 25%. The boys are sure that it is there, because they did the math. Something called “dark energy” makes up the remaining 70% of our universe. Are physicists now computing and embracing what ancient Greeks called “Quintessence”? Is this the underlying energy that unites everything? There are no molecules in the ether of our solar system, so electromagnetic energy-waves travel from their source without excitement. When energy enters earth’s atmosphere, collects, and builds, interesting things begin to happen.” Once impacting Earth’s atmosphere, stellar, planetary, and lunar energies intermingle and combine with air. Some energy is reflected back to space, some is stored in clouds, and ultra-violet gets filtered out. Earth’s soil is overall electrically conductive, and so is the outer atmosphere. The sandwiched air between earth and ionosphere is not very conductive. When electrical energy travels through alternating layers of conductive and insulative materials things start to happen. A rhythm begins. Waves in air oscillate back and forth at a frequency that tunes to the Earth. Mother Earth spins along on her axis. The molten core, with electrical properties, like the windings of an electrical motor, reacts with the spin to radiate a magnetic field into the atmosphere. Due to sloshing molten material in the core, the magnetic field reaches out from earth in an amoebic undulating fashion. Atmospheric subtle energies mix in. As they mingle amidst earth’s magnetic field, electromagnetic fields are born. Energy waves hug the earth in flowing fields of wispy ELF (Extremely Low Frequency) radio waves. These are long waves that carry the least energy, but do carry it farther. Mother Earth gathers it gently. Dielectric substances do the collecting. They are materials that only weakly conduct currents. Dielectrics can be trees, certain soils, rock, or other earth structures and substances. As subtle waves of electromagnetic energy flow through conductive materials into dielectric materials, field strength is reduced. However, the same charge is somehow maintained. Energy collects. It also flows. A rhythm emanates from vibrating earth stuff. Oscillations initiate. Waves of useful energy are there to be utilized by humans, animals, plants, and “the like”. Ancient noblemen collected energy with crowns, scepters, and thrones. Today’s gardeners can attract positive energies with more modest adornments. Beads, bracelets, and hat bands made from paramagnetic gem rocks are helpful. At the very least, what could it hurt? For more energy, like the ancients, you can construct paramagnetic towers or garden structures. There are designs online. Antennas and amplifiers couldn’t hurt. However, be certain to keep the height of your home made towers of power below those allowed by city and township zoning ordinances….somewhat shorter than the Washington Monument would be practical. It is worth mentioning that ancient men also understood how to collect, store, and disperse healthy low-energy electromagnetic fields. They had absolutely no use for power plants, or high-voltage wires. Ancient engineers constructed mounds, monoliths, obelisks, pyramids, and towers. The structures that ancient people erected, were used as antennas to collect electromagnetic energy, then store, amplify, and transmit positive waves to happy villagers, animals, and crops.” Construction mimicked the way that earth’s soil collects, stores, amplifies, and transmits energy. The question that comes to many minds is, “Once collected, where does the energy go? How does it move? Can soil transfer energy? Soil does transfer energy! The Plant Wizard has his heroes, and Nikola Tesla is one. He was quite the celebrity in his day, and battled Thomas Edison for prominence, business contracts, patents, and honor. His life straddled the turn of our last century. Tesla was a widely renowned electrical engineer and inventor, who actually invented the alternating current that we use today. His celebrity was earned through huge accomplishments, but also by way of mysterious missing research after his death. The wizard just loves intrigue. Anyway, it is known that Tesla successfully transferred energy through the soil. Soil energy was best explained by another of the Wizard’s heroes, a conventional scientist gone rogue, named Dr. Philip Callahan. He spent decades researching, and writing about paramagnetism. This is where negatively charged particles of atoms, called electrons, give up their disorganized ways. They are said to “line up” which means to flow directionally. This is in response to a magnetic field. “Lining up” is synonymous with a greater flow of energy. Paramagnetic objects are slightly attracted to a magnetic field, the key word being slightly. This isn’t like the strong ferro-magnets that you played with in grade school. Rocks and soils vary from highly paramagnetic to not at all. Energy is conducted through paramagnetic earth particles. All things have two sides or aspects called polarity. The opposite of paramagnetism is diamagnetism. Diamagnetic objects are slightly repelled by a magnetic field. Paramagnetic and diamagnetic materials return to a non-magnetized state when a magnetic field is removed. This is not true of materials magnetized by the ferro-magnets. Another important clarification… “diamagnetic” should not be confused with “dielectric”. Seemingly contrary forces like paramagnetism and diamagnetism are found to be interconnected, yet independent. Everything is dual; everything has poles; everything has its pairs of opposites. Electrons line up, and flow from a negative paramagnetic pole to a positive diamagnetic pole. Paramagnetic soil particles collect and conduct energy. Oxygen is also very paramagnetic. Water is diamagnetic. Energy flows through paramagnetic rock and soil air to the opposite pole…water. When paramagnetic meets diamagnetic water, energy is released. When paramagnetic meets diamagnetic plants, energy is released. In Callahan’s “full moon experiments” he described, “a paramagnetic/ diamagnetic plant, moon, water, and soil relationship.” Moon rock is very paramagnetic and very far away, but influences diamagnetic earth water. We all know the tidal force that the moon exerts on earth’s liquids, but what about the importance of paramagnetic constituents suspended in those liquids? Soil water does not rise and fall without paramagnetism. Moisture in soil does not rise into the air, or settle as dew, if the soil is not paramagnetic. Paramagnetic force keeps sap circulating in plants. The moon certainly does her part. She is responsible for pumping water charged with energy through the soil to plant roots. It is a feminine, rhythmic ebb and flow which washes energy to the roots of grateful plants. Wave energy from above penetrates into conductive then insulative earth materials….conductive…insulative…conductive…insulative. Each transfer through conductive material releases energy. Because it passes through a magnetic field, energy is stored in less conductive substances…then oscillates. A rhythm of waves is pumped to all of earth’s willing constituents. Those receptive to the frequency, vibrate, then oscillate themselves. The increased energy is called resonance. The resonant earth frequencies are those of Nature. Tuning to this frequency is tuning to the earth, and is sometimes defined as meditation. Plants are definitely dialed in. Resonance is the tendency of a system to produce waves of greater amplitude, when tuned to a specific frequency. Every object vibrates at its own frequency, but when objects tune to each other, wave amplitude is increased. Resonance stores more energy. Take for example a pristine forest, untouched for centuries. Animals, plants, insects, and microbes have interacted, and tuned themselves to a natural, sustainable resonance that provides vitality and health. Is it any wonder that a bull dozer disrupts everything, even those objects that it doesn’t physically touch? The second that resonance is interrupted, positive energy is depleted exponentially. Can you see the correlation to a landscape garden? High levels of paramagnetism increase the health and vitality of plants and animals in your landscape. Paramagnetism Wizard, Dr, Philip Callahan, says that a powerful interface between them will create an energy field that resonates throughout your garden. Wave energy, collected in the garden, penetrates into conductive then insulative materials…. conductive… insulative… conductive... paramagnetic… diamagnetic… paramagnetic…back and forth. Each transfer through conductive material releases energy that is stored in less conductive substances. As each garden constituent, willingly tunes its vibrations to the proposed frequency, they in turn, oscillate a rhythm of waves to others. Everything is connected, rock, soil, water, plant, animal, and microbe. Like a tuning fork, encouraging another to vibrate, those receptive to the frequency, tune to the vibrational energy, and pass it along. This resonance thing is not some vibrational pyramid scheme. There’s not some grand plan to talk the next guy into vibrating, so that you don’t have to. Everyone builds, and feeds off each other. Resonance, or increased amplification, is not maximized without a driving frequency to tune with. The Plant Wizard calls this the frequency of equilibrium. It’s the frequency of nature. The driving frequency is responsible for the oscillations, the amping up, and ultimately resonance. Likewise, a driving force pushes a driving frequency. What is the driving force responsible for harmonically resonant gardens? A gardener’s energy is the driving force. Garden resonance is a matter of getting everyone on the same page…rocks, trees, soils, fleas, moss and toads, birds and bees. A team reflects the coach, a congregation follows their spiritual leader, a garden tunes to the driving frequency projected by the gardener. What does this mean; where does a driving, infectious, vibratory energy come from? Well, where do you find that lilt in your step? How did your voice move from bored to enthusiastic? What puts that sparkle into your eyes? Do you find a driving force within yourself? Do the things around you provide energy? Props certainly lift my energy level. The wizard reminds me often that things do not create happiness, but I have noticed his attachment to certain wizardly gizmos. Just the thought of grabbing my long time friend, the stubby digging spade, for a garden project, puts a lilt in my step. Broke-in boots, sun-faded baseball cap, and my eyes get a sparkle. A step into the garden, and I am oscillating big time! Whether pristine forest or terrific garden, a tuned resonance persists; vibratory energy is stored and sustained. Entry into a resonant garden even energizes the energizer…the driving force…the gardener. The hummm of a bee, smile of a blossom, rub of foliage, scent of dug dirt, or song in the heart…it all adds in…it’s all vibratory at its essence. The Plant Wizard instructs that there is more to a driving force, “Colors, sounds, smells…every object has its unique energy signal. Signal A + B does not always result in AB…you can get C. There is something profound at work when the creative juices flow. Signal A + B + signaled “intent” of the gardener will result in C. Attention to the signals and intended result creates what the gardener visualizes. Give two gardeners the same tools and materials, the results will vary. Give twenty gardeners the same tools and materials, the results will vary.” The Plant Wizard claims that every great gardener, even if unaware, gathers powerful energies from within. Your personal energy reaches out to garden friends to make them happy and healthy. This is “the green thumb” title, awarded to those who are cosmically connected to their gardens. The same concept may be illustrated in the kitchen. Why are grandma’s chocolate chip cookies so much better than those baked in a factory? It is due to the energy grandma extends to the materials and process. Quantum wizardry states that focus, with intent and attention, will result in a better cookie or plant. You can catalyze the residents of your garden into a resonant equilibrium. The Greek philosopher and scientist, Pythagoras, agreed with us. He said, “all of the sounds and vibrations together form a universal harmony in which each part, while having its own function and character, contributes to the whole.” The Wizard claims Pythagoras had a great garden.

Minerals & More Licensed in Michigan

February 2024, The State of Michigan licensed Wizard Plant Naturals "Minerals & More Liquid Specialty Fertilizer" to be sold in containers statewide. A license is necessary in each state, so.......49 to go! Please send license money to Kyle Roberts at......JUST KIDDING! We are on our way, and excited for the product licensing and sales challenge. Much has been learned about licensing and labeling. If you are reading this, we have published the new website. Minerals & More is for sale, direct, online, with a 25% off introductory discount offer.

Minerals & More Liquid Fertilizer promotes vigorous growth, both above and below ground, developing vital plants with more roots, strong stems, tight internodes, dark green leaves....and ultimately, abundant buds, blooms and fruit. It is shelf stable with no glug in the jug. It does not plug spray nozzles.

Minerals and more is prepared in relatively small batches, with plant happy intent infused into each gallon. Large factories cannot do this, and it is important to this product. Why are home made cookies so much better than factory made cookies? Intent is important. Why do ten bakers given the same recipe and ingredients, end up with ten different cookies....some good, some better, some great? It is intention.

There is more to Minerals & More than the label explains. Try it to discover the "more".

Fertilizer Energy

If you have read through some of the other articles,you now know there exists a Plant Wizard, an Electro Wizard, and a Paramagnetism Wizard. Well, there was at one time an accomplished Nutrient Wizard who rubbed elbows with mainstream science under the name Dr. Harry Reams. Dr. Reams was a brilliant scientist accomplished in both soil science and human medicine… a truly unique background, one that gave insight to both scientific fields of study. Dr. Reams said, “We don’t live off the food we eat; we live off the energy in the food we eat.” This of course holds true a step down the food chain. Plants don’t live by the minerals they absorb; they live off the energy in the minerals they absorb. Dr. Reams taught that soil energy is created through interaction between soil elements. He developed quantifiable relationships between soil elements that produce the most energetic plant available nutrients. Dr. Harry Reams determined that it is the ratio of minerals, and the specific relationships that determine the potential of soils and plant health. Natural products, containing many nutrients, are a great way to ensure this balance.

“Nothing rests; everything moves; everything vibrates…. The differences between manifestations of matter, energy, mind, and even spirit result largely from varying rates of vibration.” Every atom contains vibratory energy, and is representative of the larger organism. According to Dr. Reams, we should think of fertilizer as energy. He developed calculations for the purpose of measuring the energy within organisms. When his system was applied to fertilizers, it was noted that the same minerals from different deposits had varying degrees of energy. The same fertilizer made by different manufacturers had varying degrees of energy. It was of course determined that the higher the energy level of the fertilizer, the better the plant response. There is more to a bag of fertilizer than those three large N-P-K numbers. Plants grow from energy, not fertilizer. Two brands, two sources, etc will have different energy levels.

How Would You Like to be Limited to Essentials?

Conventional plant science divides the mineral elements essential to plants into three groups… macro-elements, secondary elements, and trace elements. Most plant people refer to them as macro, secondary, and trace “nutrients”. Macro-nutrients are necessary in relatively large amounts. Secondary nutrients are somewhat less necessary. Micro-nutrients are required in trace amounts. The macronutrients are nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Calcium, magnesium and sulfur are are thought to be required in lesser amounts than the macros. Micro-nutrients include boron, iron, nickel, manganese, copper, sodium, zinc, molybdenum, cobalt, and chlorine. Supposedly….that’s it! The rest of the elemental goodies contained in soils are thought to be unnecessary???

Non-essential elements????? If you were a mineral, how would you like to be called non-essential? If you were a plant, would you limit yourself to sixteen basic foods, when there are so many elements to choose from? Plants have no desire or need for a restrictive diet. The wizard stresses that plants actually require most of the elements found on a periodic table, or at least are much happier with them included on the menu. The plant world’s list of essential elements is much longer than the one developed by human scientists. For better information, consult plants directly.

Why do most garden fertilizers list only the three macro nutrients (N-P-K)? Well…the absence is due to expense. Ca, Mg, S, B, Cl, Co, Cu, Fe, Mn, Mo, Ni, Na, Zn…..and “The Like”, are only needed in small quantities, but hey! We can’t forget them. The Plant Wizard believes that micro-nutrient deficiencies are the root cause for many disease and insect problems. This is not exactly a mainstream concept, so be cautious in repeating it. However, the Wizard does know plants, and in fact, spent decades as a plant himself.

The spagyric process utilizes the alchemical procedures of calcination, dissolution, filtration, and evaporation to separate the Salt, Mercury, and Sulfur from the plant, separating the mineral salts from the plant, the volatile oils, the more fixed phytochemical constituents, and the alcohol.

"Don't judge each day by the harvest you reap but by the seeds that you plant." * Robert Louis Stevenson

Three Types of Trichomes...or more?

What did the girl plant say to the boy plant? * "Leaf me alone!"

You know what trichomes are, but did you know that there are three glandular types which extractors utilize... bulbous, capitate-sessile, and capitate-stalked. Stalked are those that sugar your plants with coveted cannabinoids and terpenes. Bulbous and capitate-sessile are microscopic, and add just enough of the good stuff to be important as well.

But there are more! Non- glandular trichomes protect your plants. They look like hairs, no bulbs atop the stalks. There are no cannabinoids or terpenes, but they bar access to insects, diseases, and UV radiation.

Trichomes are very, very good!

Why worms, you ask???

Earthworms are the soil mixers. There are many species. The wizard divides them into two groups, scavengers and composters. Night crawlers burrow as deep as six feet to aerate the soil and create better water infiltration. They come to the surface at night and search for decomposing organic matter, such as lawn thatch that they drag to their burrow. Red Wigglers are a smaller species that feed on more decomposed organic matter and manures. Earthworm excrement, called “castings”, enriches the soil with valuable nutrients Soil organic matter is broken down into plant ready nutrients. Many detrimental bacterial and fungal pathogens are destroyed as they pass through the earthworm’s digestive system. Worms are good for more than just shredding, borrowing, and feeding Robins. The Wizard's worm castings actually begin with no worms involved. A compost bedding is prepared for their later enjoyment. The Wizard starts with good natural materials, enriches them with minerals, then inoculates with a diverse mix of beneficial microbes. This is added to the bedding formula and turned over to the worms. As great as compost is for lawns and gardens, it gets much better when worked on by worms! This is “Why Worms”!!! Worm compost or “vermicompost” is worm pooh mixed with other materials. The name “worm castings” is used synonymously with vermicompost, but actually describes pure worm feces. It is not possible to achieve 100% worm castings, because the worms must always have some amount of unprocessed food and bedding to be alive and happy. In the worm trade, for the most part, "castings" are filtered through a 1/8th inch screen. "Worm compost" goes through a 1/4" screen. Worm compost and castings have all of the benefits of dry compost, plus more. The Wizard says that castings are both are great. Castings are great plus! As mentioned previously, Red Worms are the guys that do the composting. Night Crawlers occupy themselves with other pursuits. Red worms are tolerant of high temperatures and crowded conditions. They prefer a life of shredding and breaking down rich organic materials such as leaf litters, manures, etc… Red Worms are best suited for composting organic materials. As worms eat their way through the ground, they consume organic material and soil. Inside the worm a gizzard shreds material; enzymes break it down further into nutrients and very fine particles. Worm castings supply minerals such as nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, as well as all of the micro-nutrients. Worms deliver minerals in no-stress plant available forms. Beyond this, worm castings stimulate plant growth far beyond what would be expected by the nutrients contained in them. It's magic! Worm pooh is packed with the beneficial microbes we discussed previously, all of them… bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and nematodes. Raw organic material is broken down into humus. Enzymes produced by worms destroy the the thick skins (exo-skeletons) of hard-bodied detrimental insects. Even the slime from their bodies helps to create a substance that binds soil particles into desirable aggregates. Worm compost is probably the best one product a gardener could apply for plant growth and overall health. To make your own worm compost, you need Red Worms, commonly called Red Wigglers. One can be certain to purchase the correct worms by confirming the scientific name, Eisenia fetida. There are any number of systems to hold worms and compost, or one can be constructed. There are many DIY designs on the web. A unique proprietary barrel system is used by Wizard Plant naturals. Most home systems are too small, and most gardeners do not stay with them long. Go as big as you can. About all that worms need to be happy is bedding and food. Bedding is best chopped or shredded, and might consist of newspaper, leaves, or dried plant material. Worms eat all sorts of things that you no longer wish to have around. Coffee grounds and pumpkin are delicacies, but they devour most any vegetable, grain, or fruit scrap. Avoid bones, dairy, and meats. Forget onions, garlic, or citrus. Worms don’t touch the strong stuff. Earthworms breath through their skin, so it is essential to keep them moist. The compost should contain a moisture content equal to that of a wrung out sponge. It may, at times, be necessary to add water, never chlorinated, as this will kill beneficial microbes. Worms do not have eyes, but are highly sensitive to light, especially sunlight. You’ve seen the more adventurous guys try to traverse pavement. I feel sorry for those wriggling across the Home Depot parking lot. They don’t make it too far. Keep them protected, shaded, and comfortable… no colder than 45 degrees F, no warmer than 85 degrees F. Worm compost is ready when dark, consistently broke down, and sticky. It is worth mentioning, that the fluid which drains out the bottom of your bin is generally beneficial to plants, but not exceptionally so. It can contain high levels of anaerobic bacteria. How are worms separated from castings? We Tried "worm grunting". You have to google worm grunting videos! Picking them out by hand works. Using their preferences and dislikes also works. Setting a bin with bottom holes, filled with fresh bedding and food, on top of the finished compost, will entice worms through the holes, into the fresh bin. Worms get tired of tunneling through their old pooh. Placing finished compost on top of ¼ inch wire mesh, resting atop fresh bedding and food, will also create a worm migration… especially if the finished stuff is exposed to soil desiccating breezes and blistering UV sunrays. Once worms evacuate, you have a terrific compost, as well as a trained worm labor force, ready for the next batch,

What Would Mom & Dad Say???

"Don't make me come in there!" "Eat it. It's good for you." "If Billy jumped off a cliff, would you?" "Now look what you made me do." "Don't let the screen door hit you in the butt on your way out." "Go tell your mother she wants you." "One...two....three.....four......five......." "When I was your age......" "Were you born in a barn?" "Stop that! You will go blind." "Now look what you made me do!" "What will the neighbors think?" "I can't take you anywhere." "What will people say?" "Now, do not embarass me." "Pull your pants up." "You don't know where that's been." "Did any of that go in your mouth?" "Get a Kleenex." "Save some for the rest of us." "Go wipe that off." "We will see....." "Use your napkin." "Not on your sleeve!" "Don't pick at it."

Treat Plants to Compost

Many compost materials can be used, but the final product reflects the quality of the original inputs. Even though there are many techniques, the process is science, and involves principles consistent, despite one’s specific approach. Two components are necessary. The first must be high in carbon, such as leaves, straw, or woody material, commonly referred to as the “brown” component. The second is the “green” component, and should be rich in nitrogen. Sources could be green plants, food scraps, or manures. The goal is to activate microbes to decompose the materials. To succeed, there must be adequate air, moisture, and warm ambient temperatures. The key to a successful recipe is to get the right balance of nutrients. For a compost pile, this means maximizing the carbon to nitrogen ratio (C/N Ratio). 30:1 is the guideline, 25:1 for small batches. The bottom line, it takes a lot more “brown” material than “green”. A smaller ratio will finish quicker, but may produce odors and a slimy product. A larger ratio will compost slowly. Beneficial microbes… bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and nematodes, interact in the compost to break down carbon and protein. A high temperature is created that breaks raw products into small crumbs of finished compost. This process creates an additionally wonderful result. The high temperatures generated, kill weed seeds and pathogens. Compost moisture is essential, because it softens material and permits micro-organisms to move about. Chemically treated water is undesirable. Municipal water supplies contain chemicals that will kill the beneficial microbes we are trying to nurture. The moisture content of green material should also be taken into consideration, as it can significantly contribute to the water you or the rain clouds are adding. Air is critical to increasing decomposition. There are two types of bacteria in the compost. Aerobes require oxygen. Anaerobes do not. Generally, aerobes are beneficial to plant health. Many anaerobes are detrimental to plants. Aerobes are fast eaters, and produce a lot more heat than anaerobes, which of course more quickly turns raw materials into finished compost. To maximize beneficial oxygen-loving bacteria, the compost must be frequently turned over, or otherwise aerated. Small compost piles do not heat up as easily as larger ones. Twenty-seven to fifty cubic feet is considered to be a minimum size. Smaller piles may need some help getting heated up. Boxed supplements can be purchased, or the carbon to nitrogen ratio can be reduced. Additionally, shredding raw material into smaller pieces can significantly shorten composting time. A quality compost, that plants can fully utilize, goes through the heating process, and will be completely broke down into dark crumbly particles. Compost can only be as good as source materials. For the best compost, those materials should be diverse. This ensures that your plants receive a smorgasbord of nutrients and a healthy eclectic mix of beneficial microbes. It’s a good idea to save a bit of each finished batch of compost to inoculate the next. Is compost a fertilizer? The Wizard says that a fertilizer will provide less than all of the components necessary for plant growth, where as compost will include minerals, humus, and microbes. A bagged natural organic fertilizer may offer these qualities, but with reduced humus and sleeping microbes. Compost is bulky. More is added than fertilizer, per square foot of lawn or landscape bed. Compost is a dark, crumbly decomposed organic matter. Leaves, wood chips, refuse, or any number of organic materials can be the base for a good compost. The expensive trace minerals, often left out of fertilizers, can be found in compost. It contains healthy biologically active (not sleeping) microbes. Nutrients are released slowly for healthy controlled plant growth. It can even aid in the release of nutrients tied up in the soil. Compost buffers pH, or somewhat stabilizes soil chemistry. Compost adds humus to improve soil texture, increase organic matter, and to retain moisture. It can be spread as a mulch to provide all of the aforementioned benefits, plus prevent the germination of weeds. Compost is great, but worm compost is even better...........

ORGANICS "UNTANGLED"

The marketing of lawn and garden products has led to a lot of confusion regarding “organics”…purposeful confusion. One spring, a while back, a national lawn care company aggressively advertised their “organic lawn care program”. The fertilizer used, was most certainly based on urea, an organic nitrogen fertilizer synthesized by combining natural gas with atmospheric air, under pressure. The term “organic”, means only that a compound contains the element carbon. Synthesized urea ((NH2)2CO) contains carbon, so it can be called organic. Is this what gardeners want when they request an organic fertilizer?

The Wizard says people are really asking for “natural” fertilizers, those derived from sources occurring naturally in nature. Manure is one of the few choices we have for a naturally derived nitrogen. Manure based fertilizers generally contain phosphates. When phosphates find lakes and streams, they feed the algae. As algae populations bloom into submerged masses of green stuff, they use up the oxygen necessary for aquatic animals to live. Is this what gardeners want when they request “organic” or “natural?”

An inclination toward natural organic fertilizers is intuitively correct, and certainly the goal, but consider all of the terrific things you use every day that are not “organic” or “natural”. Man had a hand in making them, and they are not all bad.

It’s not all bad that the lawn care company referred to earlier, was relying on synthesized urea for a source of nitrogen. It is all bad that they stalked good intentioned gardeners with a deceitful “organic” smoke screen, that they call advertising.

The many conscientious gardeners asking for “organic” fertilizers, are truly requesting a “responsible” fertilizing approach.

“Organics” Clarified

•Natural… is a product derived from animal/biological, mineral or plant sources, in a form substantially as it occurs in nature.

• Organic… is technically any substance containing carbon.

• Natural-based… generally describes a mixture of materials that include some elements of natural origin…but how much?

• Organic-based… generally describes a mixture of organic and man-made ingredients…but what is it, and how much is there?

Organic fertilizers are notorious for having many different names with multiple shelf facings, while having exactly the same contents!

The “organic” classification, as used in agriculture, has come to represent an approach utilizing naturally derived products, and a few others only when absolutely necessary. Who decides what is “organic”? The USDA regulates the “certified organic” claims for agriculture. There are highly specific rules to follow if a farmer wants to get the “USDA Certified Organic” sticker on his produce. Similarly, various organizations, such as OMRI, OLC, and NOP have created their own standards. These acronyms on the products you purchase, indicate that manufacturers complied with certain stated criteria in order for their product to be endorsed as “organic”. These organizations scrutinize lawn and garden as well as agricultural products.

Humic Substances….Organic????

Decomposed organic matter that resists any further alteration, is called humus. The best soils have humic substances in abundance. Of course the Wizard mentions them first, because they are magic molecules….monster-sized….too complex to be analyzed effectively by today’s scientists. The Wizard says it has to do with transmutation. If fancy scientists want to understand, they should ask a good alchemist.

Think of humic substances as concentrated humus that cannot be broke down any further. They are carbon compounds that began decomposing as plants thousands of years ago. Unlike fertilizers that leach away, or get used up, humics will last in garden soils for years and years. They work with mycorrhizae to make more nutrients and water available to plant roots. They remove dangerous toxins, stimulate microbe activity, improve soil structure, and store nutrients. Humic substances even reduce the amount of nitrogen necessary to stimulate plant growth. Products applied professionally by Wizard Plant Naturals, and sold in retail packages, are rich with humic substances.

Organic Pesticides???

Is it zero pesticides that you want? Well, what is a pesticide? The National Pesticide Applicator Certification Manual defines a pesticide as just about anything applied to plants, soil, water, animals, structures, furnishings, and clothing…to kill, attract, repel, regulate or interrupt pests. Insecticides kill insects, fungicides kill fungi, herbicides kill weeds, nematicides kill nematodes, miticides kill mites…you get the idea.The Plant Wizard stresses that pesticides are not inherently bad just because they are labeled as “pesticides.”

Chemical Pesticides

The Wizard considers chemical pesticides to be those chemically altered or completely synthesized by man. Before chemical pesticides, humans swatted insects from crops with switches. Weeds were pulled, hoed or burned. Plant diseases were cursed and tolerated. Plucking insects from crops was common, even somewhat practical when plucked and eaten. Slowly…over many centuries…men found additional solutions to plant pests. Powdered elemental sulfur chased off insects and mites. Lime, copper and sulfur prevented plant diseases.

In the 1940’s Sherwin-Williams Paint Company added a new product to their pallet, called 2,4-D. The company synthesized the first effective, inexpensive herbicide. It miraculously cleaned farm fields of most broadleaf weeds. Crop productivity increased by leaps and bounds. Efficient insecticides and fungicides were synthesized for the control of insects and diseases. There are now hundreds of synthesized pesticides to choose from.

The Wizard wishes to stay out of the fight that characterizes all synthesized pesticides as “poisons” and “pollutants.” He does say the rampant use of chemical pesticides is unnecessary, and most harmful because these products impair beneficial microbes. They additionally interrupt the subtle energies that couple plants to soil for maximum health.

Many soil experts now link pesticide use with a reduction in the quality of farm soils. Applying synthesized pesticides is much easier than alternatives. “Easier” is why synthetic pesticides are used for farms and landscape gardens. It is physically easier to spray something, and it is mentally easier to read a pesticide label than it is to read a book offering alternatives. To minimize synthetic pesticides, or render them completely unnecessary, gardeners must at least gain practical knowledge of soil, plant, and energy interactions.

“Organics” Untangled Again

Opportunistic marketing folks are having their way with the word “organic.” “Organic” sells. Organic pesticides are synonymous with flittering butterflies, bees buzzing, sunshine, and fresh breezes…right?

The term “organic”, means only that a compound contains the element carbon. Unfortunately, there is not a positive correlation between the word “organic” and environmental safety. DDT, is an organic insecticide banned in the 1970’s due to its persistence in the food chain. Organophosphates and carbamates are organic insecticides, now replaced by less toxic non-organic alternatives. Is organic what gardeners want, when they request an “organic” pesticide?

The previous examples of organic pesticides are synthesized organic compounds. Maybe “safe” pesticides need to be “natural”. The Wizard says a grizzly bear is natural. Is he safe? Arsenic, mercury, and lead are natural. They were used for centuries as efficient insect killers. Unfortunately, they pose health risks. Arsenic, mercury, lead, and grizzly bears are all dangerous. Is this what gardeners want, when they request a “natural” pesticide?

Neither “Organic” nor “natural” seem to be what gardeners are asking for when seeking out a pesticide. Maybe “natural organic” pesticides are the environmentally friendly approach that gardeners seek…naturally derived organic compounds. Well, rotenone is an insecticide derived naturally from a plant. It is non-toxic to mammals. However, get rotenone near the water and fish float belly up, by the boat loads. Nicotine sulfate, extracted from tobacco leaves, is a very effective natural organic insecticide, but so toxic to humans, that it can no longer be sold in the United States.. Is this what gardeners want when they request “natural organic?”

An inclination toward natural organic pesticides or no pesticides at all is intuitively correct, and certainly the goal. However, most gardeners are not plant wizards. They need a few potions to bolster their plant care prowess. “All natural all of the time” seems simplistic and a bit hypocritical. By definition, “to garden” insinuates an intervention in the natural processes of our earth. We grub out indigenous plants to make room for those that are native to lands with different climates, soils, and bio-systems. Should a “natural” gardener impose his wishes and exotic plants upon a natural fauna, a micro-environment that took centuries to develop? To me, the decision to create gardens separates us from “naturalists” who tip-toe through meadows and forests. How fulfilling is it to pop a plant native to China into a wooded area at the border of your back yard, just to let nature take its course…no fertilizer, no pesticides? How well will this plant grow? It is my contention that the efforts necessary to plan, prepare, plant, etc… are too great, just to let Mother Nature reclaim her ground, one declining plant at a time. I say wizard-up, damn it! If you plant a garden, take care of it. If you choose to garden naturally, it takes a maximum physical and mental effort. The more you learn about nature’s processes, the less you will be dependent on synthesized pesticides. However, until we learn all of Mother Nature's secrets, a few synthetic plant care solutions will be necessary. The Wizard and folks at Wizard Plant Naturals first choose natural pesticides....as long as they are effective. Growing healthy, happy plants with minerals, microbes and positive energy can make the entire pesticide discussion a mute one. Healthy plants, of course, require no pesticides!

Treat Plants to Compost Tea

Compost tea is a liquid means for adding the benefits of dry compost to your lawn and garden. Think of it as liquid compost, sprayed or drenched onto soil, and additionally effective, when sprayed onto plant foliage. It includes all the important things that make up the dry stuff….plus a few. There is none of the solid humus, but the important soluble humic extracts are captured. There are enzymes, organic acids, and minerals…..but most importantly, there are MICROBES!!!! Beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes do their part in making nutrients available to landscape plants, as well as protecting them from plant damaging insects and disease pathogens. The tea brewing process exponentially increases the number of microbes contained in the original dry material. Compost tea is a water extract from compost, brewed without heat. This coaxes beneficial organisms to multiply in high numbers. The best tea has, as its source, a high quality dry compost or composts. The more sources, the more diverse the microbe populations. Diversity provides a high likelyhood that there will be the right microbes in the mix to combat a pathogen population before it builds to detrimental levels. Tea microbes suppress many foliar diseases. To ensure that the tea contains beneficial microbes, air is added to the liquid. Aerobic microbes, those utilizing air, are generally beneficial. Anaerobes, those that do not need air, often have negative effects on plants. When compost meets water, it is critical to producing beneficial microbes, that the water bubble and churn with infused air. Foliar treatments are a very effective way to get nutrients into plants. Scientists have found that plants utilize nutrients eight to twenty times more efficiently when foliar-fed, compared to soil applied nutrients. With compost tea, nutrients are absorbed into the plant, and beneficial microbes populate plant surfaces to protect them from disease. Foliar application is fantastic as a supplement to soil applied goodies! However, building a great soil is still priority one. Plants, more than anything else, relish an opportunity to choose their own nutrients from the soil.

Humic Molecules too Big to Handle

Decomposed organic matter that resists any further alteration, is called humus…

The best soils have humic substances in abundance. Of course the Wizard loves them because they are magic molecules….monster-sized….too complex to be analyzed effectively by today’s scientists. The Wizard says it has to do with “transmutation”. If fancy scientists want to understand “transmutation magic”, they should ask a good alchemist.

Think of humic substances as concentrated humus that cannot be broken down any further. They are carbon compounds that began decomposing as plants thousands of years ago. Unlike fertilizers that leach away, or get used up, humics will last in garden soils for years and years. They remove dangerous toxins, stimulate microbe activity, improve soil structure, and store nutrients. Humic substances even reduce the amount of nitrogen necessary to stimulate plant growth.

Humic deposits leach into streams around the world, with health results significant enough to cause indigenous peoples to claim magical healing powers.

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